Rosewood Neptune Riesling 2018

'Neptune' is Rosewood's riesling from vines planted in 2004, made in an oxidative style, and very successfully at that. The name was inspired by the 'saltiness we get from the lees', according to winemaker Ryan Corrigan. 40% is aged in clay, and 60% in old wooden puncheon for 18 months, while the entire lot goes through full malo. The nose is terrific and inviting, showing fine honeyed, candied lime aromatics; the palate is dry and delivers substantial flavour and length. It's not a textbook Niagara riesling by any stretch, but it's all the more unique and appealing for its quirky but clean character. Drink or hold mid-term. Tasted July 2021. Score - 91. (John Szabo, MS, winealign.com) 750 mL bottle