This release represents a profound change at this address from a culture of rich wines hewn of old vines and traditional winemaking, at least in an Australian sense, to one of earlier harvesting and a grasp for freshness. Sure, the ancient vines remain. Yet despite the palpable intensity and drive, there is a twiggy dryness, a paucity of amplitude and a generosity that is synergistic with an early harvest window. Olive and dark fruits, sure. Time may bestow further beauty. I score with the benefit of the doubt in mind. Drink from: 2022. Drink by: 2030. (Ned Goodwin, MW,winecompanion.com.au,July 6, 2023) This release represents a profound change at this address from a culture of rich wines hewn of old vines and traditional winemaking, at least in an Australian sense, to one of earlier harvesting and a grasp for freshness. Sure, the ancient vines remain. Yet despite the palpable intensity and drive, there is a twiggy dryness, a paucity of amplitude and a generosity that is synergistic with an early harvest window. Olive and dark fruits, sure. Time may bestow further beauty. I score with the benefit of the doubt in mind. Drink from: 2022. Drink by: 2030. (Ned Goodwin, MW,winecompanion.com.au,July 6, 2023) 750 mL bottle